Fez Tanneries and Medina Scams: Which Tannery, What to Pay, How to Say No

Visiting the tannery

Three tanneries remain in Fez. The famous Chouara tannery is reached through leather shops, and you view the vats from a terrace. It is free to look, but shop staff may expect you to browse or tip. Go in the morning when the work is busiest. The smell is strong, and the mint sprig offered at the entrance is part of the experience.

Common scams

• A stranger says the street is closed and offers to show you another way.
• A free guide who then takes you to a shop.
• Overpriced goods with no price shown.
• A demand for payment after a photo.

Politely say no thanks and keep walking, or step into a shop and ask for directions. A licensed guide removes most of this, see do you need a guide in Fez.

How the tanneries work

Fez has three traditional tanneries: Chouara, the largest and oldest, near the Seffarine square; Sidi Moussa, close to the shrine of Moulay Idriss II; and Ain Azliten in the north of the medina, created at the end of the 18th century. The work is done almost exactly as it was in the Middle Ages.

• First the hides of cow, sheep, goat and camel soak for two to three days in white vats of quicklime, salt, water and pigeon droppings, which loosen the hair and soften the skin.
• Then the tanners scrape them by hand and move them to the coloured vats.
• The dyes are natural: poppy for red, indigo for blue, henna for orange, saffron and pomegranate for yellow, and mint or other plants for green.
• The hides dry on the roofs and hillsides in the sun, then go to the craftsmen who make bags, jackets, babouche slippers and poufs.

What to pay

Looking from a terrace costs nothing. If the shop owner has shown you the terrace and you do not buy, a tip is a fair thank you, and as everywhere in Morocco tips start at 50 MAD. Leather prices are not fixed, so compare a few shops and only buy what you really like.

How to say no politely

• A smile and “la, shukran”, no thank you, is enough in most cases.
• Do not stop to argue or explain. Keep walking at your own pace.
• If someone insists on guiding you, walk into a cafe or a shop and ask for help.
• Never follow someone who says the tannery is only open now or that it is a festival day.

Better ways to see craft

If you want to see leather, pottery and brass made by real artisans, a workshop visit is more rewarding. Read artisan workshops in Fez and see our Unique Experiences.